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He embraced her continual play of contrast and contradiction: tweed and satin, black and white, and the democratization of jewelry by mixing priceless things with flashy fakes. Like most couture houses, Chanel had no archives, and Mademoiselle kept none. She survived everybody, her successor says.

I want to be part of what is to come, she used to say. What was to come, for fashion, was multinational luxury branding; fashions aimed at a broader, richer, and more aspirational market than the world had ever seen. Like Mademoiselle, Karl was a.

Many Karls, wearing their hair in a white-powdered ponytail, lifted a hand with knuckles half-hidden in biker rings to check the knot below a starched collar a full four inches high. The same platoon of Karls gazed back through dark-tinted spectacles as if checking up.



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Karl Lagerfeld: Chanel's most memorable runway sets

He trained at the couture studios of Pierre Balmain and became head designer at Patou when he was 20. (Yves Saint Laurent, a friend of Karls in their youth, became the head of Dior at 21. There are no young designers or old designers, Karl.

He made sensational shows, subverting and redefining the Chanel look in every way imaginable (trashing, slashing, parodying if need be) but perpetually filling the stores with a fresh supply of wearable sexy clothes, often with the magic logo of the double C. The new designer.

There was another pause at the threshold, a perceptible presentational instant, as if he were poised on the balls of his feet in order to see and be seen. Now he stepped into a square of brightness, already speaking to the people in the room.


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